ROLEX SUBMARINER

ROLEX SUBMARINER

The Submariner confirms the professional expertise of Rolex technicians in its giving divers the possibility of measuring the time of immersions.
The first model, presented at the BaselWorld tradefair in 1954 with the reference 6204, is waterproof to 100m. The steel case measures 37mm, bidirectional bezel is not graduated for minutes between 1 and 15, the seconds hand has a luminescent circle at the end, the writing is in gold and at the bottom of the dial is the word Submariner. The dial is black (polished or honeycomb), with a bordered chapter ring, the hands are pencil and the crown, not yet protected by shoulders, is 5.3mm in diameter. The movement is an A.260 calibre, recognisable by its domed caseback.
In 1956 production of the Ref. 6204 ended and in 1954 two other models  came into production with the references 6205 and 6200. The 6205 has a more domed caseback and the crown is 6mm. There are also 6205 models without the word Submariner on the dial.
The 6200, waterproof to 200 metres, has a bigger case and caseback, new Brevet 8mm crown (coroncione), explorer face dial with Arabic numerals or a standard dial with circular hour markers. The majority of times the word Submariner does not appear on the dial. The hands are Mercedes and the movement is an A.296 calibre.
In 1955 references 6205 and 6200 went out of production giving way to three new models.
The 6538, replacing the 6200, became waterproof to 200 metres and has a 1030 calibre which slimmed down the caseback. The first models’ bezel, ungraduated, was subsequently graduated for the first 15 minutes. The dial, polished black with gold writing, is produced in different versions: equipped with a certificate of Officially Certified Chronometer, with the depth written in red, explorer face. The small seconds hand is either standard or lollypop, with a larger luminous disc.

Contemporary to the reference 6538, the reference 6538 A is distinguished by its dial without the word Submariner and no maximum depth indicated, its Tropic 19 crystal and the registration number embossed on the caseback. This particular model was probably destined for military use.
The reference 6205 was replaced by the Submariner Ref. 6536, waterproof to 100m. This model is characterised by a 6mm crown and a glossy dial with gold writing, except for certain rare cases in which the depth is indicated with a red font.
In this period the 6536/1 variant was also circulating with a thinner case and slightly larger crystal compared to the analogous reference. Most likely Rolex wanted to distinguish between a more professional model (6536) and a more commercial model (6536/1).
From 1958 the company introduced two new references: 5508, similar to the 6536/1 model but with the new 1530 calibre and the reference 5510, evolved from the 6538, with a Brevet 8mm crown and waterproof to 200 metres. The following year all Submariner models went out of production, except for the reference 5508 which was available for a further three years.

Substituting all previous references is the Submariner 5512, equipped with innovative shoulders (pointed to start with then more rounded)  to protect the crown, also redesigned (7mm Twinlock). Amongst other changes in look are the rotatable bezel with more evident fluting and an insert graduated for the first 15 minutes . The first models, with a black glossy dial and gold or gold/silver writing, have a 1530 calibre, whilst subsequent models (from 1965 onwards) have the new 1560e and 1570 calibres. The writing SWISS at the six o’ clock position becomes SWISS-T<25.
Production of the 5512 ended in 1978, the year in which matt dials with white writing, introduced in 1967, stopped being used.
The new arrival at the Rolex company in 1962 was the 5513, more economical than the 5512 and lacking a chronometer certificate. From 1963 onwards the 5513 has a 1520 calibre and from 1965 rounded shoulders to protect the crown. The dials also underwent many changes: glossy with bordered chapter ring (1962-1964), glossy with open chapter ring (1965-1967) and matt (1968-1985).
Furthermore, in 1964 there existed a ‘transition’ dial with the word SWISS, open chapter ring and a silver underline and another type of dial called explorer with Arabic numerals at 3, 6 and 9.
Towards the 1980s the 5513 underwent a significant change which would stay in the catalogue until 1988, the year in which it was replaced by the 14060 with sapphire crystal. This change was the “bicchierini” hour markers, no longer printed on the dial, but appliqué with white gold outlines.
In 1967 Rolex introduced the Submariner 1680 onto the market with an important change: a date aperture with Cyclops lense. The movement is calibre 1575, the dial is matt with white writing and the word Submariner in red. From 1973 onwards the writing on the dial would be completely white.
In 1969 the first Submariner version in 18kt yellow gold with the reference 1680/8. The dial is available in blue and black with gold writing and the appliqué hour markers are truncated cones, give the dial its nickname: nipple dial.

In 1978 production of this model was terminated and in 1979 production of the steel model was terminated.
In 1971 the chronostop was introduced and in 1972 the Submariner crown became Triplock.
From 1979 onwards the 16800 entered the Rolex catalogues with a unidirectional rotatable bezel (anti-clockwise), Triplock crown with external O-ring, 3035 calibre movement with instantaneous date jump and chronostop.
The dial with “bicchierini” markers was produced until 1988.
In 1989 the Submariner Date Ref 16610 with 3135 calibre movement and its respective steel and gold (ref. 16613) and 18kt gold (Ref. 16618) versions came into production.

In 2003, to coincide with the 50th anniversary of the birth of the Submariner, Rolex presented the 16610 LV on the market, better known as the Green Sub for the colour of its bezel, once black, now green. Furthermore, inside the crystal, at the 6 o’ clock position, there is a small hologram of the Rolex crown. Another obvious and innovative structural particular is the absence of the traditional holes in the case for the replacement of the bracelet, which makes it easier to recognise an authentic model.
Part of the success of the Submariner is certainly due to the charm and elegance of the secret agent James Bond created by Ian Fleming, himself a Rolex owner.
In the first film of the series, Dr. No, Sean Connery playing 007 wears a shoulderless Submariner with a crocodile or military style striped strap. It is probably a reference 6538.
But the most “explosive” model is the one worn by Roger Moore in Live and Let Die: an exceptional 5513 with which Bond is able to deflect bullets or cut wire. This unique ‘James Bond’ Submariner model was knocked down at Christie’s in 2001 for £26,500.

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Steel	Steel and gold	Gold
Tropic plexiglass crystal	Cyclops plexiglass crystal
Sapphire crystal
The colour yellow represents gold in all its variants: Rose, White and Yellow. For more information contact our experts: drg@dellaroccagioielli.com