Considered the wristwatch par excellence by most, the Patek Philippe Calatrava embodies all the elegance, the essentiality and the geometric harmony to the Swiss company has always aspired, with particular reference to the Theory of Functionality at the base of the German Bauhaus philosophy. The choice of name recalls the Calatrava Cross, a Greek cross in gules with fleur-de-lis at its ends and used by the manufacturer as its personal emblem. The name comes from Spanish city of Calatrava which in medieval times was a place of bloody battles between Christians and Muslims and the order founded by the abbot Raymond Serrat in 1158, based on the Knights Templar. This valiant story was retold in 1932, the year in which the first model in the line was created, known by its reference of 96 and distinguished by its round (moneta meaning coin in Italian) case 31mm in diameter, flat with square corners, striving for the utmost formal sobriety in a watch, in that all the principal functions were organised in a circular fashion. The white dial emphasises the Dauphine hands and the rectangular hour markers, the movement is self-winding. This first model inspired the following ref. 5296 in 18kt white gold and silver finished dial divided in two and subtle blue relief motifs. The first variant of the model ref. 96 was produced in 1934 and introduced the doubly decorated bezel “clous de Paris” which would become a constant for successive productions. In the course of the years the company, designing new movements, created models with central seconds and different dials, characterised by their “complications”: a model from 1937, produced in a limited number of pieces, with perpetual calendar, lunar phases and retrograde date indication and the complete calendar model of 1938, well-known for its extremely high asking price at an Antiquorum auction in 2000. The Calatrava, despite being an expression of the dominating aesthetics of the 1930s, was able to withstand the passing of time, anchoring itself firmly in any decade, its strength in its intrinsic classical qualities, the synonym of eternity: this is further proof that this model has been, and still is, a reference point for the design of haute horlogerie. Through the years, both the case and the dials underwent aesthetic changes whilst the materials used in this collection were generally platinum, gold (yellow, white and rose) and rarely steel. In the rich Calatrava gallery the first glance is reserved for the Officier model with the reference 5022 with a 215 PS calibre movement as with the reference 3919, created in 1985 with leaf hands, polished case and lugs and “clou de Paris” bezel”. In 1989 Patek Philippe celebrated its 150th anniversary with the presentation of the 1950s style Calatrava 3998 model with rounded bezel and Dauphine hands, inspired by the period in which the first automatic wind model was produced. The “sports” model dates back to the 1990s, the ref. 5000 produced in a limited series and subsequently replaced by the Ref. 6000 which was also equipped with a date ring reminiscent of the 1930s. In 2000 the collection underwent several innovations, amongst which the proposal of a case with a larger diameter (37mm) for the male models, in with the tastes of a more contemporary clientele. The first references produced were the 5107 and the 5117, the former with a smooth bezel and the latter with “clous de Paris” decoration. This last bezel was reintroduced on the male model in yellow gold with reference 5115 with small seconds sub dial, a true and proper cult of the Swiss company thanks to its dial in real enamel. The women’s models too, joining the range at the end of the 1940s, presented in 2000 (Ref. 4905 e 4906), have a thicker case at 28mm. The new millennium brought about the creation of two exclusive Calatrava models: World Time and Travel Time. The first model, with reference 5110, inherited and personalised certain characteristics of the previous World Times, with similar time zone reading mechanism. As regards normal world time watches the 5110 innovatively allows for the rapid change of time zone without the need for calculations or further adjustments. The Travel Time however is a new concept double time zone watch, particularly useful for those who travel frequently because it shows two time zones at the same time thanks to two differently coloured hands. At BaselWorld in 2007 Patek Philippe introduced a female version of the model, with the reference 4934, diamond encrusted bezel and mother-of-pearl dial. The Swiss company has never overlooked the female admirers of the Calatrava to whom it dedicated particularly elegant lines resembling jewellery; one need only think of the 2005 models characterised by a double ring of diamonds on the bezel and dial and the satin bands of very refined colours. The line between jewellery and horologery in the Swiss company’s creations is often blurred: one recent variant of the model can attest to that; the reference 5108 available in pink or white gold with 52 Top Wesselton diamonds on the bezel and on the dial. What sets a vintage Calatrava apart from a 2009 model is difficult to describe: the same quality and perfection, careful attention to detail and technology, bearing a Geneva seal, winning aesthetics, functionality and sobriety, elegance and essentiality... the list of positive attributes could go on and on.