ROLEX DATEJUST

In 1945, to celebrate the fortieth anniversary of the founding of the company Wilsdorf & Davis, forebear of Rolex SA, the Datejust ref. 4467 in 18kt yellow gold (apart from some Everose gold versions) was launched. This version boasts an A.295 calibre automatic movement which requires a particularly solid rounded case back. The 4467 is characterised by the presence of a two-toned calendar (even numbers are red and odd numbers are black), a unique fluted bezel and a very small crown (subsequently replaced by a larger one).
The name Datejust was first seen inscribed on the dial at the beginning of the 1950s, picked from several suggestions including Ritedate, Victory and Jubilee. This last name was eventually used for a type of bracelet made by Rolex in 18kt gold and introduced to the market at the same time as the Datejust ref. 4467.
The first 100 models carried a serial number between the lugs at the 12 o’ clock position whilst the reference number was engraved on the inside of the case back.

The Rolex 4467 went out of production at the end of the 1940s, giving way to new models. After the 5030, an 18kt gold model in the Ovettone style (the steel version carries the reference 5031), the real successor to the 4467 came onto the market: the 6075. This model had ‘Datejust’ inscribed on the dial and benefited from a Super Oyster non-screw down crown and was produced in both 18kt yellow gold and Rolesor (steel/gold). The reference 6074 is attributed to the domed bezel version. In 1951 the new models ref. 6104 (domed bezel) and ref. 6105 (fluted bezel) boasted the new A.296 calibre. These references were replaced in 1953 with two steel models (but also available in yellow gold): the 6304 with a domed bezel and the 6305 with a white gold fluted bezel.

Up until the end of the 1950s Rolex also produced special orders of the model in white gold and platinum, with versions for left-handed people with the crown at the 9 o’ clock position.
In 1954 the company introduced the Cyclope magnifying lens at Basel, a small lens positioned over the dial aperture which allows for an enlarged view of the date.
The year 1956 marked the birth of two new Datejust models: ref. 6604 with a domed bezel and ref. 6605 with a fluted bezel. Both models bore a 1065 calibre which allows for a less bulky case and a flatter case back.
In the same year the President bracelet was introduced, mounted on the Rolex Day-Date 6511 and instantly replaced the Jubilee bracelet.
In 1959, as well as the change to a 1565 calibre, the Datejust underwent other important modifications, mostly aesthetic and linked to other references. In order: ref. 1600 domed bezel, ref. 1601 fluted bezel, ref. 1602 case and bezel linen-textured finish, ref. 1603 fluted bezel, ref 1607 with bark-finish bezel and ref. 1611 with linen-texture finish bezel. The different materials available and the pie pan dial remained unchanged.
This series of references stayed in production for eighteen years without significant modifications except for the introduction of the new 1575 calibre and the chronostop.
A particular model of Rolex Datejust appeared in 1975 with the reference 1630, characterised by a never seen before ‘shaped’ case and available only in steel/gold with Jubilee bracelet.

This reference stayed in the catalogue until 1977, the year in which the whole collection adopted the new 3035 calibre with an instantaneous date jump system and flat dial.
The references underwent a further change to become five-numbered and distinguish between materials and finishes. Comprising: 16000 steel and domed bezel, 16003 steel/gold and domed bezel, 16008 white gold and domed bezel, 16009 white gold and domed bezel, 16013 in steel/gold and fluted bezel, 16014 in steel and fluted bezel in white gold, 16018 in 18kt gold and fluted bezel, 16019 in white gold and fluted bezel, 16030 in steel and fluted bezel, 16078 in 18kt gold with bark finish bezel.
The last Datejust in acrylic glass was made in 1988, clearing the way for the new sapphire crystal models available in the following sizes: men’s (36mm), medium (31-34mm) and ladies’ (26mm).
Regarding the story of Rolex, it is important to underline the importance of watches manufactured outwith the normal standards of size, paying particular attention to the ‘medium’ measurement which was very fashionable with men in the 1980s.

At the start of the new millennium the Datejust range underwent further changes with the adoption of six-numbered references, new clasps on the bracelets and a wider range of dials available. All which confirms the success of a model much admired by the public.

Rolex Datejust References

Legend:

Steel	Steel and gold	Gold	Gold bezel
Platinum	Cyclops plexiglass crystal	Sapphire crystal
The colour yellow represents gold in all its variants: Rose, White and Yellow. For more information contact our experts: drg@dellaroccagioielli.com

Rolex Datejust sapphire crystal (31 e 34 mm) references