PATEK PHILIPPE NAUTILUS

At the end of the 1970s Patek Philippe surprised the world of haute horlogerie by introducing the exclusive Nautilus model, an undoubtedly reliable sports watch, suitable for every occasion, “for dinner jackets and wetsuits alike” as published on an advertisement from those years. “One of the most expensive watches in the world is made of steel” confirms another poster in which the Nautilus is photographed with a steel sword. The innovative idea of a model so different to the classic Patek Philippe collection was managing director Philippe Stern’s, exponent of the evolution in style of the period. With the goal of satisfying the demands of a clientele evermore dynamic, searching for a watch they can wear even when playing sports, in 1976 the Swiss company launched its own model with a carré galbé case in the shape of a porthole, a flat octagonally shaped bezel and a streamlined bracelet with interconnected links. The watch was created in collaboration with the designer Gérald Genta who, taking inspiration from the luxurious ocean liners of the period, completely rethought the engineering of the carrure, no longer monoblock, but divided horizontally into two sections: the lower one comprising the case and the upper one comprising the bezel. The choice of the name, apart from recalling the nautical world, it emphasises the watch’s underwater resistance, unusual characteristic for a Patek Philippe model.
The Nautilus reference 3700/1 appeared on the market four years after the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak model, twenty years after the launch of the traditional “sports” models (Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms) and in a moment of ciris for Swiss watchmaking due to the competition of quartz models. After the initial “modest” request for the model in the 1980s, the popularity of the Nautilus grew considerably and was destined to increase by virtue of the changes that this well-known model underwent. The first model produced had a large sized case nicknamed “Jumbo”. In 1982 the company introduced a new version with a smaller case and a few years later the collection was enriched by women’s models, in a smaller version. In 2005 the Swiss watchmakers went back to producing larger timepieces (case 42 by 38 mm, 8.5mm thick) with the new reference 3712/1 differing from the past in its dial, characterised by colour shading that goes from black at the edges to dark blue at the centre, providing a refined visual effect together with raised horizontal lines.
The dial is also enhanced with additional functions that modify its design:
- a small white hand that indicates the power reserve found on a small circle between 10 and 11;
- an auxiliary dial with analogue calendar at 7 o’ clock with a small window indicating lunar phases
- an auxiliary small seconds sub dial between 4 and 5
The minute and hour hands are baton in white gold and luminous, as are the hour markers, well readable even in poor light. The steel bracelet has externally polished and internally satin finished links with a déployante clasp.
The movement, modified obviously to accommodate the three complications, is automatic calibre 240 PS.IRM.C.LU; it has 265 components and a mini-rotor in 22kt solid gold integrated into the movement itself, but, despite the complications the thickness of the calibre is reduced to only 3.98mm. The beauty of the movement, decorated with the Seal of Geneva, is visible through the sapphire glass caseback. Thirty years after the birth of the Nautilus, the Swiss company celebrated the success of its sports model with a new collection, inaugurated by the Ref. 5712/1A, available too in white or pink gold, with a leather strap. The hinges of the case were newly designed in such a way as to soften the curves, the proportions and the finishes of the bracelet offer a greater wearability and the baton hour markers and hands and slightly bigger. The version in rose gold has a brown anthracite dial and a dark brown strap; the white gold version has a grey anthracite dial and a black Safari strap.
The most impressive and sporty of the Nautilus models is the reference 5980/1A with a 44m steel case waterproof to 120m and a CH 28-520 C calibre chronograph movement equipped with a new instantaneous date jump mechanism and 327 components.
Completing the list of Nautilus references is the 5800/1A wth 330 SC calibre and tige brisée system particularly admired by women with its smaller case size, 38.4mm instead of the 43mm of the reference 5711/1A. For the new “Nautilus Joaillerie” collection Patek Philippe created two particular luxury models of the famous watch: reference 5713/1G with a diamond encrusted bezel and reference 5722G with 32 baguette cut diamonds on the bezel.
Finally, it is the company’s own philosophy that tells us why a timepiece never loses its charm through the years: “we can never completely possess the things we love. We only look after them then pass them on.”
The following are some references of the models produced

Steel	Steel and gold	Gold	Platinum
Diamonds	Quartz	Mechanical
The colour yellow represents gold in all its variants: Rose, White and Yellow. For more information contact our experts: drg@dellaroccagioielli.com